Walking Down Sweet Belgrade
Serbia is neither Austria nor Turkey when it comes to sweets and pastries. Being in the middle of both cultures, it is actually better. Along with the mandatory coffee fix that should be on your to-do list as part of experiencing the Balkan’s coffee culture, take the time to treat yourself at one of the many delightful cafés and sweet shops of the city. Follow my lead and get to know where are hidden the sweetest wonders of Serbia’s capital!
The very last candy store in Belgrade! The place is a small treasure land hidden in the old Belgrade, somewhere between the Brankov bridge and the train station. The shop was opened back in the middle of the 20th century and never changed location or ownership. The candies are prepared in the back of the shop by the Bosiljcic family with century-old recipes! Pay attention when you look for it, it is very small and the colours on the entrance are faded, for a complete retro look. This is a place I recommend also for souvenirs, you can get yourself or your family a box of “ratluk”, the Turkish delight.
Bombondzija Bosiljcic, Gavrila Principa 14, Belgrade
open Monday-Friday 07:00-19:00 and Saturday 08:00-14:00
Vegan, local, green, delicious. My new favourite place in town. The place was opened in spring 2018 at the corner with the vibrant bohemian street, Skadarlija, by two adorable young women who quit their job to start their own business. Suma (which means forest in Serbian) has the best homemade blueberry wine and cookies I’ve ever tasted. Albeit small, it is very green, affordable and cosy. Everything is baked on-site and all the products are as locally sourced as possible. Obviously, the chocolate is imported, but the rest comes from Serbian farms, including one of the owner’s family farm. I call this café my “happy place”. If you are a follower of my work, you see it often on my Instagram account and in my stories. I also recommend you stop there during your three-day stay in Belgrade!
Suma, Simina 22A, Belgrade
open Monday-Friday 10:00-22:00 Saturday 12:00-22:00 Sunday 15:00-22:00
Mandarina cake shop
A feast for the eyes and the mouth. Mandarina is the cutest cake shop ever and each creation is worth every dinar. You can either buy to take away or sit at the lovely terrasse during the summer, although space is limited. It would be hard to recommend you a cake specifically (give me chocolate and something crispy and I’m sold) as the creation change every now and then to follow the seasons. The best is simply to step inside and look what’s on the menu. Have a chat with the staff, they will help you make the right choice (hint: you can’t really go wrong).
Mandarina Cake Shop, Gracanicka 16, Belgrade
open Monday-Thursday 10:00-22:00 Friday-Sunday 09:00-22:00
The best “pancakes” of Serbia. Now, as a French I am aware those are not real pancakes – or crêpes as we would call them. The world is still not ready for a proper galette de Sarasin. That being said, Keops has an amazing menu with salty and sweet pancakes and makes for the perfect spot if you’ve been walking along the river for hours and you need something tasty and massive to rebuild some strength. There are several Keops places but I always go to the one on the splav (boat) near the Hotel Jugoslavija. They have an outdoor area (for which you will want to bring some mosquito-repellent) as well as an indoor area for the winter time, should you find yourself wandering in the snow on a perfect white day.
Keops, Kej Oslobodjenja BB, Belgrade
open Sunday-Thursday 09:00-00:00 Friday-Saturday 09:00-01:00
Black Sheep & Moritz Eis
The ice cream game is strong in Belgrade. People are very divided about the best ice creams shops in the city. I have myself participated in many of those heated discussions. Now, the truth is you should simply try them all. I have a special fondness for Black Sheep (Crna Ovca) and their basilica-lemon flavour. But Moritz Eis, which you might have visited before in Split, Cluj-Napoca, Porto Montenegro or some other cities, has a mean Viennese coffee flavour and serves gigantic teapots. Both are near the pedestrian street Knez Mihailova that leads to the fortress of Kalemegdan. On your first day of visiting, while going around the historical centre, grab a cup or a cone and enjoy the walk!
Black Sheep (Crna Ovca), Kralja Petra 58, Belgrade
open Monday-Sunday 10:00-00:00
Moritz Eis, Vuka Karadzica 9, Belgrade
open Monday-Sunday 10:00-23:00
Ice cream again, people. I’m telling you, Serbs love ice cream and love to make them the right way. This one is also located in the historical city centre in a street that has been recently turned into a pedestrian zone. The terrasse is therefore really nice and the place is bigger than Black Sheep and quieter than Black sheep. The first shop was opened in the northern Serbian town of Novi Sad in 1991. 25 years later and thanks to fruitful cooperation with Italians ice creams maestros, another shop was opened in Belgrade. Have a chat with the owner if you are lucky to meet him, he is always happy to talk in Serbian/English/Italian/French about his story and his products. What makes Poslasticarnica special (the name means “pastry shop”) are the flavours: besides the fruits and classic ones you will find white wine, rakija (the Balkan brandy), Schweppes, ajvar… Try them all!
Poslasticarnica, Marsala Birjuzova 7, Belgrade
open Monday-Saturday 09:00-23:00 Sunday 14:00-23:00
Are you full of ice cream? Are you sure? Too bad because Bacio also has some very good offer. But it’s time to talk about cakes again. Halfway between the pedestrian street and the giant Orthodox church Sveti Sava, Bacio is the perfect stop for a break and a sweet fix. That’s where I go when my period pain is too much and all I want is to forget in some sugary bliss. I’ll have a “nugat” please. They have a terrasse for the summer and a lovely inside area for the cold or stormy days. The perfect spot if you need to punch in a couple of hours of work as well.
Bacio, Višnjićeva 10, Belgrade
open Monday-Sunday 09:00-00:00
I think decadent would be the word to describe a sugar feast at the Happy Owl. Located in Vracar, not far from Bacio, Vesela Soova is a doughnut shop and so much more. Take me down to Happy Owl city where the space is pink and the lemonade so pretty… Is that how the song goes? Have a look inside – please no drooling on the pretty doughnuts – and get the one you like the most on top of your milkshake. To be fair, they also have fruit plates to make it slightly more healthy.
The other nice thing about Vesela Soova is that you can also get chocolate fondue and other fun things to do/eat as a group. You can also order on Wolt for delivery!
Vesela Soova, Njegoseva 10, Belgrade
open Monday-Friday 08:00-22:30 Saturday 09:00-22:30 Sunday 09:00-21:00
A sweet historical dive in the oldest pastry shop of Belgrade. Located near the church of Saint Mark and Tasmajdan Park, Pelivan was opened in 1851 in another location but was unfortunately bombed in 1941. The shop then moved to its current location on Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra (King Alexandre’s Boulevard). It offers ice cream, cookies, cakes, oriental pastries…
You will want to visit this place on May 24 for its birthday: they give free ice cream to everyone! Prepare to wait a bit though as it is quite popular.
Pelivan, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 20, Belgrade
open Monday-Saturday 08:00-22:00 Sunday 12:00-21:00
Any place you think I should mention? Share it!